With the Worlds just around the corner, I built a new car, with all the latest knowledge and tricks that we have in our extensive bag of publicly available speed secrets. My Worlds starting setup is
posted here, please check it out. For a more extensive analysis of the reasoning behind these setup choices, check Patreon at patreon.com/thequagraine tomorrow.
Below you can find info on my car in the captions of the pictures.
Worlds Starting Setup
Careful build with the basics done right. Thread lock applied, everything moves freely, Lunsford Titanium screws and turnbuckles, JQ Aluminium balls, gearbox screws and brake cams, carbon fiber radiotray and centre diff mount plates.
Running the 0 KPI knuckles with 18 degree caster blocks.
Two curved steering links used to add clearance for swaybar. This has no effect on steering geometry or feel.
All this year I have been basically removing my servo saver. I glue the plastic part to the aluminium tube, I glue the CNC top, (JQB0175) to the lower part, lock the spring down all the way, and ziptie the plastic part to the post, so it can’t flex. More precise steering in hot high grip conditions.
I have never used this part, but it is the Worlds, so JQB0431 Gearbox Brace in place, to strengthen the front gearbox.
I have never understood people who can’t figure out the brake system. I’m pretty sure these same people have trouble getting dressed. Get the JQB0390 Easy Adjustment Collars also if you like adjusting brake bias on the fly. * Note fuel line routing!
No switch, direct battery to extension from receiver, secured with a bodyclip. Extension glued to throttle servo housing tab. Battery cable with easy pull tab glued on, a la Richard Saxton.
REDS WR7 2.0 with a TS3 plug, and 2113 + L pipe combination. Stock JQ clutch.
This is an RC Car, and RC Cars have antennas.
Carbon Lightweight JQB0422A tower, CNC high wingmount JQB0197/198.
Swaybar link constructed out of two lower shock ends shortened and connected with a droop screw. ALSO….NEW rear hub! A lower row of holes for low grip, a longer rear link option, and the possibility of running CVD’s with the joint inside the inner bearing.
Rear toe plate is from the WE, with the square inserts. It’s possible to run less toe in with this setup. I’m running the least amount at 1.5 degrees.
Patriotic chassis livery. The first Buggy Worlds with a 100 year old Finland.